Hi! On this page, I will personally answer all of your 3D printer buying advice questions.
Whether you’re completely new to 3D printing or are looking to upgrade, I’ll help you pick the best 3D printer for what you want to use it for.
It doesn’t just have to be about 3D printers. If you want guidance on what filament to use for a specific use or which paint primer I use, go ahead an ask that too.
The more information you can give me about what you want to get from your 3D printer, the more precise an answer I can give you.
I will let this page become an archive of 3D printer buying advice, so you can search through it to find questions that are relevant to you.
Please ask for advice using the comment box at the bottom of this page. Try to include the following information to help me give the best advice:
- Budget – How much are you willing to spend, use a dollar (or local currency) amount as saying ‘cheap’ can mean different things to different people.
- Usage – What do you want to use your 3D printer for? Do you have a specific project or hobby you want to use it for?
- Experience – What hands-on experience do you have that will help you assemble your 3D printer and fix things if they go wrong? Do you do DIY/Lego technic/Arduino/fix cars etc (don’t worry if nothing!)
- Limitations – Do you have any limitations that might affect which 3D printer you can get? For example, do you have to keep it in your unheated garage in Winnipeg?
I’d definitely go with the Creality Ender 3 Pro. It has a huge community following with a long list of potential upgrades. Out of the box, it will work just fine, the latest Pro version adds a better power supply, sturdier frame, and magnetic bed for less than it would cost you to upgrade yourself.
If your sculptures are very detailed you might want to upgrade later to an Anycubic Photon DLP printer, but I’d start with the Ender 3.
Check out my guide to 3D printing D&D minis, it sounds relevant to what you want to do.
Thanks for your question!
Lots of people are 3D printing Nerf parts now, it’s a great way to expand your hobby.
The Creality Ender 3 Pro would be the perfect choice for you. It has the print volume you need and will print PETG with no issues (just watch your retraction settings to reduce stringing). It’s a great printer and you’ll find a lot of help available online to get the most from it.
Either of those printers is a good choice. The Maker Ultimate gives you a direct drive extruder and touchscreen operation, but I’d say for your use it’s not worth extra money compared to the Creality Ender 3 Pro unless you can get a very good deal that puts it within $150 of the Ender.
With your experience, I’m sure you’ll get some good results from the Ender 3 Pro. You might also want to look at the Anycubic Photon. I’m not too familiar with Gundam but looking at the scales if some of your models are very small you will get more detail from a DLP printer like the Photon.
You have a good few options that fit your budget. You should check out the Raise3D Pro2 Plus, it meets all of your criteria and gives you nearly 600mm height on the print volume. They have US-based technical support which gets a good rep too.
Hope that helps,
I think you should check out the Zortrax M300 Plus. It meets all your criteria and it’s one of the few 3D printers with built-in HEPA filtration. Zortrax has a good reputation and is based in Europe so there are plenty of retailers in your area. It’s a fancy-looking machine which is probably a benefit if it’s on show to prospective customers in your office.
Best of luck with your business!
The Creality CR-10 S5 will give you a large print volume of around 500mm x 500mm x 500mm, it’s the sort of 3D printer that is likely to need some tweaks to get the most from it.
As you are happy to build a kit printer I highly recommend the Prusa i3 MK3 kit, which is a very high-quality printer that will just scrape under your budget if you buy the kit version. The Prusa does have a smaller print volume of 250mm x 210mm x 210mm.
Your decision should come down to cost as I’ve noticed the price of the different Ender 3 models fluctuates a lot so sometimes the Ender 3X is actually cheaper than the standard Ender 3. The Pro model gives you an upgraded MeanWell power supply, a sturdier frame, and a magnetic print bed (which not everyone likes). The 3X model gives you a glass bed on an otherwise standard model.
Basically, the upgrade models are often overpriced for what you get compared to the original. The Pro model is worth about $50 more than the base model, the 3X is worth about $25 more than the base model. See what prices are available when you want to buy and get whichever is the best value at that time. You can always do the upgrades yourself at a later time.
I hope that helps!
I generally don’t recommend Delta 3D printers to beginners as they are much more sensitive to calibration being out of tolerance. For a Delta printer to work, it must be fully calibrated in all directions of travel, otherwise, your prints are highly likely to fail and it will be hard to tell which axis is causing the problem. You kind of have to have everything working 100% to get a print.
You are much more likely to have problems like this on a cheap 3D printer, so really cheap Delta 3D printers can take a lot of effort to get working.
With a ‘conventional’ 3D printer. i.e. cartesian or core XY etc, it’s a lot easier to diagnose problems. This is because when one axis is out of tolerance you will generally still get a completed print but with defects that will allow you to diagnose what is wrong.
If you don’t have any 3D printing experience, you’re very likely to find a cheap Delta a frustrating experience.
If you’re keen on a delta (and you should be – they are cool!) I thoroughly recommend you start with a conventional printer first, learn the ropes, and then invest in a good quality delta when you have some practice and it’s worth spending a bit more money.
I hope that helps!
The Ender 3 retails for around that price, maybe a bit more so you’re effectively getting all that spare filament for free. Two things:
- You need to be pretty sure the printer is working as it should as you won’t be getting the benefit of a warranty or free 30 days return like you would on a new one.
- You need to be certain the filament has been stored correctly in a moisture-free environment and you will need to find a way to do the same. That’s a lot of filament! Each spool needs to be in a ziplock or vacuum-sealed bag with a good amount of silica gel or the whole lot in a big air-tight crate. If the filament has taken on moisture it is effectively useless. It is technically possible to dry it out but it’s a lot of hassle to save a few bucks.
They’re both good printers but the Prusa i3 MK3S is definitely the better of the two. Although building the Prusa kit will take you a good day or two to put together it’s not difficult if you’re used to Lego or putting IKEA furniture together. The instructions are very clear and the quality control is excellent so you won’t be dealing with missing or broken parts.
You can look at the instructions here which should hopefully give yourself a better idea of whether you think you could manage it.