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Intro
Bed leveling is the number-one factor for a successful first layer. If your build plate isn’t level, filament won’t stick—or it will squish too hard and jam. Once you understand it, leveling takes minutes and improves results dramatically.
Manual vs. auto leveling
- Manual: adjust corner screws while moving the nozzle around.
- Auto: a probe maps the bed and firmware compensates. You still set the Z-offset correctly.
Tools you’ll need
- A sheet of standard paper (or feeler gauge)
- Preheated nozzle and bed
- Clean build plate
- Good lighting
Step-by-step leveling
- Preheat nozzle (200 °C) and bed (60 °C).
- Disable steppers; move nozzle to front-left corner.
- Slide paper under the nozzle and turn the knob until you feel light resistance.
- Repeat front-right, back-right, back-left, and center.
- Go around again—adjusting one corner affects others.
- Print a first-layer test and tweak Z-offset until lines are smooth and touching.
Signs your bed is not level
- One side squishes while the other side doesn’t stick
- Lines don’t touch or have gaps
- First layer peels up mid-print
- Elephant foot at the base (too close)
Pro tips
- Always level at printing temperature
- Re-level after moving the printer or changing plates
- Use mesh bed leveling if your board supports it
- Upgrade springs to silicone spacers for stability
FAQ
How often? Any time you notice first layer issues, or after hardware changes.
Paper or feeler gauge? Either works—paper is fine if you’re consistent.
Wrap-up
A properly leveled bed is the foundation of reliable printing. Make it a quick routine and your success rate will skyrocket.
Thanks for reading! If you have any questions then please drop me a message using the contact form below
Dylan
