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Intro
PETG is the “do-everything” filament for functional parts: tougher than PLA and more forgiving than ABS. It does string more—but with the right tweaks, you’ll get clean, strong parts every time.
Baseline settings
- Nozzle 235–250 °C
- Bed 75–90 °C
- Cooling 30–50%
- Speed 40–60 mm/s
- Retraction: 1 mm @ 35 mm/s (direct) or ~4 mm @ 35 mm/s (Bowden)
Adhesion and removal
- Clean bed thoroughly; PETG can bond aggressively.
- Use a light glue-stick film on PEI/glass as a release layer.
- Don’t oversquish the first layer.
Reduce stringing
- Dry filament (6 hours @ 65 °C if popping).
- Increase retraction slightly; enable “combing.”
- Lower nozzle temp in 5 °C steps if strings persist.
Strength boosters
- 3–4 walls, 25–35% infill for brackets.
- Orient parts so stress runs along layers.
- Print slightly hotter for layer bonding (within spec).
FAQ
Does PETG scratch beds? Only if forced—let beds cool and use a safe scraper angle.
Outdoor use? Good; for long sun exposure, ASA is better.
Wrap-up
Dry filament, clean bed, conservative cooling, and small temp tweaks are the recipe for handsome, durable PETG prints.
Thanks for reading! If you have any questions then please drop me a message using the contact form below
Dylan
