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Intro
Resin printing delivers ultra-detailed, smooth models that filament can’t match. Perfect for minis, jewelry, and intricate prototypes. Learn the workflow and safety basics to start strong.
How resin printing works
MSLA/SLA printers cure liquid photopolymer resin with UV light through an LCD mask, building one layer at a time across the whole cross-section.
Resin printing workflow
- Print: Slice in Lychee or Chitubox; set layer height, exposure, and supports.
- Wash: Agitate in IPA or water (for water-washable resins) to remove uncured resin.
- Cure: Expose to UV in a curing station until fully hardened.
Choosing a resin printer
- Monochrome LCD for speed and longevity
- Rigid frame and consistent build plate
- Replaceable FEP/PFA film in the vat
Resin types
- Standard — crisp detail, brittle
- Tough — more impact-resistant
- Flexible — bend without breaking
- Water-washable — easier cleanup (waste still must be cured)
Safety is non-negotiable
- Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection
- Work in a ventilated area
- Cure all resin waste before disposal
Supports & orientation tips
- Tilt models 30–45° to reduce suction
- Use heavy supports on stress points and light ones elsewhere
- Hollow large models; add drain holes
Post-processing
- Remove supports after washing but before final cure
- Sand nubs and prime before painting
FAQ
How messy is it? Messier than FDM, but manageable with trays, gloves, and a calm workflow.
How long does a print take? 2–6 hours typically; prints by layer height, not part width.
Wrap-up
Resin printing elevates your hobby with museum-grade detail. Respect the workflow and safety, and your results will shine.
Thanks for reading! If you have any questions then please drop me a message using the contact form below
Dylan
